Plant Care for Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidiums boast some of the most dramatic flowers in the orchid kingdom. Depending on your climate, plant care for cymbidium orchids can vary from easy to somewhat challenging.

These orchids are popular in temperate climates such as California where they are typically grown outside year round. The warm, sunny days and cool nights (40-55 degrees) found in this area are perfect for these plants.

They are not the best plants for indoor growers however. Without lots of daytime sun and evening temperatures in the 40-55 degree range you'll get good looking plants but they just won't bloom. And isn't that why we grow orchids?

In Northern climates, the best cymbidiums are usually grown in greenhouses. Don't have a greenhouse? Don't worry. Even if you're climate challenged, you can still grow these orchids. Just remember that plant care is a little different from other orchids. Not difficult, just different.

1. In the spring, move your plants outside for the summer where they get several hours of direct sun. Leave them outside until temperatures reach the 40 degree range.

2. After they get a good dose of cold weather in the fall (to trigger blooming), bring your plants indoors in a cool room (preferrably 55 degrees or cooler).

3. Enjoy those magnificent blooms through January and February - just when you need them.

4. When the weather warms and the threat of frost is past, move your plants outside for another growing season.

Light: Cymbidiums require lots of light. Without proper light you'll see weak growth and no flowers. If you can't move your plant outside during the summer months, these plants are probably not for you.
Mature cymbidiums need several hours of direct morning or afternoon sun. Leaves are always a good indicator of proper light. They should be light green with a tinge of yellow - dark green means not enough light and your plants won't bloom. Too much sun and the leaves will turn yellow or bleached white.

Blooming season for Cymbidiums is winter - just when you need it!

Temps: The ideal temperature range for cymbidiums is in the 40-90 degree range. They don't make good indoor plants because inside temperatures won't be cool enough at night (and there's not enough sun during the day.)

To initiate blooming, keep your plants outside until temperatures drop into the low 40's. You might even see frost - don't worry - these plants can take it! Damage occurs if temps drop below 30 degrees however.

When it's time to come inside, put your plants in sunny window and keep them as cool as possible, preferably 55 degrees or lower at night. Too warm and the buds will turn yellow and drop off. Flower spikes should begin Dec-Jan. After flowers open, plants don't need the cool temps anymore so display them anywhere for show.

Water: Outside, your plants will be actively growing so increase the watering. When the water gauge reads empty or "Min" rewater to 1/2 on gauge. Unlike most orchids, cymbidiums do not need a "dry period" between waterings when they're outside.

In the fall, when the plants are moved back indoors, cut back on the watering somewhat. When indicator reads "Min", wait several days before rewatering to only 1/4 on gauge. Continue this watering schedule all the way through the blooming cycle.

In March, after blooms have faded, reduce watering dramatically. Just run water through the pebbles once a week to keep the plant from dehydrating. Don't allow standing water at the base. Cymbidiums go dormant for a month or two so don't expect new growth. This is the best time for transplanting into larger pots if necessary. It's also the best time to transfer to hydroponics. See Transplanting Cymbidiums into Hydroponics.

Nutrition: During their active growing season outside cymbidiums are heavy feeders. Apply nutrients at full strength every watering during this period. The occasional rain shower balances the nutrition program by providing clear water between feedings. We recommend and use Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 (1/2 tsp per gallon.) Every couple of waterings add Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro 2-15-4 (1/2 tsp per gallon) with the Gro to give the flowering process a boost.

When the plants are moved indoors in the fall we use Dyna-Gro/ Mag Pro combination every watering. Remember, cut back on watering when plants come back inside.

After the last blooms have faded we eliminate nutrients altogether until plants are moved outside again.

Cymbidiums and Hydroponics

Cymbidiums are excellent candidates for our hydroponic system . The LECA pebbles never breakdown or decay, insuring a healthy root system. Because the pebbles are a sterile ceramic, they won't attract insects while your plant is outside. And you never have to repot because the media is deteriorating.The water gauge makes watering easy through the different seasons. Our system is clean and easy to use, both inside and outside.

For Cymbidiums we use "Deep" Grow Systems. These pots are 8" deep compared to only 5" deep for regular systems. The taller profile makes ideal growing containers for cymbidiums.

Comparing regular culture pots
vs Deep culture pots

When growing outside, we make an adjustment to our hydroponic system to accomodate the extra water from rain showers. Normally, the decorative outer container acts as a reservoir, storing the nutrient solution to be used by the plant. Outside, frequent rain showers tend to fillup the outer pot, overflowing the system. So we replace the outer pot with a shallow saucer 1 1/2 - 2 inches deep. When it rains, excess water overflows the saucer and drains away, keeping the plant from drowning.

Cut a plastic saucer to 1 1/2 - 2 " deep

Outer container must have a drainage hole. Place saucer at bottom.

View of Hydro system with saucerr

Complete system outside in terra cotta pot

Repotting Cymbidium - Transplanting to Hydroponics