Growing Cymbidium Orchids

In Northern climates, the best cymbidiums are usually grown in greenhouses. Don't have a greenhouse? Don't worry. Even if you're climate challenged, you can still grow these orchids and enjoy their stunning flowers. Plant care for cymbidiums is a little different. Not difficult, just different.

Temperature range for cymbidiums is in the 40-90 degree range.

These plants need temperatures as low as 40 degrees at night to initiate their bloom cycle. They simply won't bloom without it. So keep your plants outside until the thermometer drops to the upper 30's(!). You might even see frost - don't worry - these plants can take it! Damage occurs if temps drop below 30 degrees however.

During the day, they won't complain with temperatures that approach 100 degrees either.

Like I said, "these plants are durable".

Cymbidiums don't like wet feet!  In nature these plants grow on rocks and trees with their roots exposed to the air. The only nutrition they get is from tree bark, bird droppings, etc. So when in doubt, hold back on the water and nutrients.

Outside, your plants will be actively growing so they will drink more. Water to 1/4 or 1/2 on gauge - no more! Excess water should drain away. Water gauge should never read more than 1/2. If it does, your saucer is too deep. I use and recommend Dyna-Gro Grow Formula 7-9-5 every other watering. I like to add Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro 2-15-4 to the mix about once a month to give the flowering process a boost.

Always wait until the bottom of pot (or saucer) is dry before rewatering. My plants to sit completely dry for several days between waterings. (In nature, cymbidiums grow in loose gravel or around rocks and trees where there is quick drainage.So they don't like sitting in water for extended periods - even growing in hydroponics). 

Clear water from rain showers flushes the system and balances your nutrition program.

Moving Indoors in Winter

After several nights of temperatures in the high 30's - low 40's, it's time to move indoors. A sunny window is best. Try to keep the plant(s) as cool as possible, especially at night, preferably around 55 degrees. Too warm and the new flower buds will drop off.

This is when things start to get exciting! Start looking for flower spikes in  early January. As the flower spikes mature and the first flower opens, move the plant(s) to where they look their best. No more sun needed - they've stored up all the energy they need to complete their flowering, so display them where ever they look their best. (Cool temperatures away from sun actually prolongs the life of the flowers.)

Water + Nutrition

When you move your plants back indoorsl, cut back on the water and stop nutrients altogether. (This helps encourage the bloom cycle to begin.) Water sparingly and slowly - when the gauge moves - stop! Don't rewater until bottom of pot is dry, usually about once a week or so. The seasons have changed and these plants don't need much water.

When flower spikes appear (look for them at the base of the plant), start feeding again using a "bloom formula". I use Dyna-Gro Bloom 3-12-6 to encourage bigger, longer lasting flowers. Continue this all through the bloom cycle.

In March, after the blooms have faded, cymbidiums go dormant, which corresponds to the dry sesaon in their native habitat. Reduce watering even more. Just run water through the pebbles once a week to keep the plant from dehydrating. That's all. No standing water at the base.

Don't expect new growth until plants go outside again and their growing season begins. (Remember, it's all about rhythm.)

This is the best time for transplanting into larger pots if necessary. It's also the best time to transfer to hydroponics.