Blooming Cymbidiums ...
we did it
cymbidiums that are nice and healthy, but no flowers? You're not alone.
Until this year we haven't had much luck getting them to bloom either.
plants can be stubborn bloomers in our climate here in New
Last year was
different! We've had
oustanding success - and we want to
share it with you!
Cymbidiums in full bloom.
What a show!
Larger plants in the
This plant has over 60
flowers on 5 spikes!
Cymbidiums just aren't
happy indoors year round. They require
sun and chilly temperatures at night (40-50 degree range).
Growing indoors in
a sunny window will get you a healthy looking plant - but no blooms. In
our climate, moving these
plants outside for the summer and fall is the only way to go.
cymbidiums use the summer sun and cool evening
temperatures to build up the energy for those big, bright
moved our plants outside
around May 15th, after the last frost. The plants
need to st
acclimates to being outside so we put them in shade at first,
protecting them from direct
sun. After a couple of weeks, we moved them to their
summer home where they got full sun from 2
o'clock on. (Don't be timid - these plants need sun!)
always a good indicator of proper light levels for cymbidiums. They
should be light
green with a tinge of yellow - dark green means not enough light and
your plants won't bloom. Too much sun and the leaves will turn
yellow or bleached white.
initiate a flowers spike, cymbidiums need cold temps at
- in the 35-45 degree range. (Techincally, these plants can withstand
temperatures as low as 27 degrees!) Our plants
stayed outside until the weatherman gave us a freeze
Nov. 16th. They endured several nights where the
was white with frost.
brought them into the greenhouse and set evening temperatures
at 50 degrees. A cool window in an unheated room would work
here. Don't worry about sun, your plant has stored up enough
energy from being outside for
blooming. Cool temps are important though. Developing buds will turn
yellow and fall off if temperatures go above 55 degrees during this
Once the flowers begin to open, the plant
no longer needs the cool so display it anywhere. We
noticed our first flower spikes around January 1st
with flowers opening several weeks later. With good air
circulation blooms will last for 6 weeks or more.
Unfortunatley this Cymbidium wiil never reach its potential growing in potting soil indoors.
Cymbidium outside building up the energy for big, beautiful blooms.
cymbidiums really responded to our hydroponic system outside. The LECA
pebbles are clean and easy to use, making an excellent growing media
for these plants. Their "wicking action" delivered the right blend of
oxygen and nutrients to the roots resulting in robust plants. And you
never have to worry about the media breaking down and
around the roots causing root rot.
was easy too. We replaced the outer pot with a shallow saucer to avoid
overwatering. Exposed to the elements, the outer pot would
too much water from rain showers. Replacing it with a shallow saucer
allowed the excess water to drain away.
growing in LECA pebbles.
use copious amounts of water during their growing season outside. When
the water gauge reads "Min", go ahead and water. Very little "dry time"
is needed between
waterings. We still waited for the system to be dryout before
rewatering however. Using a shallow saucer as the resiviour
prevents overwatering because the excess will drain away.
are heavy feeders during the growing season. Dyna-Gro Bloom 3-12-6
provides a balanced diet that's high in phosphorous and potash - good
for flowering. Then, we added a dose of Mag-Pro 2-15-4 (along with the
Bloom) every couple of
waterings for real boost.
Cymbidiums we use "deep" Grow Systems. "Deep" Grow Systems are
8" deep compared to only 5" deep for regular systems. The taller
profile of these pots makes them ideal